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A Bordeaux Classic Changes name....

Friday, 26th February 2010 by Stephen Browett

We have today learnt that one of France's most famous white wines will be changing its name from the 2009 vintage. Laville Haut Brion is possibly the world's finest and most famous dry white wine that is made primarily from the Semillon grape variety (the blend in 2008 was 79% Semillon, 21% Sauvignon Blanc). It's certainly the world's most expensive dry Semillon with a release price en primeur last year of £2600 per dozen. Haut Brion Blanc is, by the way, a 50:50 blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

So, Laville Haut Brion is no more. In their third major change in as many years, the owners - Domaines Clarence Dillon - have decided to re-name this great wine Chateau La Mission Haut Brion Blanc. On one hand it seems a shame to ditch one of the great names of Bordeaux but on the other hand it makes it clear to customers new to the market that this is (and always has been) the dry white wine of La Mission Haut Brion.

The Dillon family have owned La Mission Haut Brion (and therefore Laville Haut Brion) since the early 1980's. Before then it was owned by the Woltner family. Their records show that the wine was actually known as La Mission Haut Brion Blanc in its first vintages, 1927-1930, before being named Laville Haut Brion. Therefore, this is not in fact a name change at all, but a return to the original name.

Prince Robert de Luxembourg, Clarence Dillon's grandson, now runs the estate and has shown once again that, although steeped in tradition, he is a man who is not afraid to make changes. The re-naming of Laville follows the decision to label Haut Brion's second wine (from the 2007 vintage onwards) as Clarence Haut Brion and to bottle it in the distinctive Haut Brion-shaped bottles. There were few complaints when the barely pronounceable Bahans disappeared... The other major change here was the decision to discontinue production of La Tour Haut Brion - 2005 was the last ever vintage. The vines of La Tour are now incorporated into La Mission but in practice the fruit is used for the 2nd label - La Chapelle de la Mission.

The Domaine has also announced (on March 4th 2010) that Les Plantiers Haut Brion will be re-named La Clarté de Haut Brion. This white wine is made from young vines in both the Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion vineyards

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