While 2004 Burgundy wines are somewhat maligned of late thanks to those so-called ""green meanies"", the 2004 Meursault Villages from Coche-Dury is absolutely stunning. Pale straw in color, it has brilliant delineation and precision on the nose. It brims over with energy and exudes a laser-like focus. The palate does not disappoint. As with the aromatics this is all about precision and poise, like a Russian gymnast cartwheeling across a bar and landing with a perfect ""ten"". This effervescent Village Cru would out-perform many Premier Crus and you feel like shedding a tear when your glass can no longer be refilled. Drink 2014 - 2022.
The 2004 Meursault has a generous, slightly loose-fitting bouquet of brioche and almond shavings on the nose that is very pure, offering white truffle and walnut with continued time in the glass. The palate is composed on the entry with well-judged acidity that keeps the wine harmonious and somehow effortless. It does not have the complexity or ambition of either the 2009 or 2010, but it remains a fine wine for the vintage. Drink now-2019. Tasted March 2013.