Certan de May 1989

It has always been interesting to compare this vintage with the 1990. As the wines have aged, the 1989 has shown more and more dry tannin and structure, but like the 1990, essentially it lacks the great concentration one expects of a top property in a potentially superb vintage. As herbaceous nose intermixed with hints of tapennade, cedar, new oak, spice box, and red and black fruits is certainly complex and inviting. In the mouth, this medium-bodied wine seems close to full maturity except for the rather dry, astringent, tannin finish. I do not think this wine is going to flesh out or deepen in richness, so I would suggest drinking over the next 10-12 years. The color is still quite dark, but there is plenty of amber at the edge. Again, the sweetness of red fruit, predominantly cherries, intermixed with cedar, fruitcake, and a distincive herbaceousness make for an attractive although somewhat Provencal aromatic profile. The wine is medium bodied with plenty of sweetness up front, but then somewhat attenuated in the finish with the dry tannin kicking in. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Last tasted, 4/02.

A bottle ordered at Andrew Edmund restaurant in Soho. A clear, pale garnet core with tawny rim. The nose has moderate intensity, well-defined although not as complex as other Pomerol 1989's that I have encountered: cherry, dried leaves, mulberry and smoke. Tends to gain intensity and lift in the glass, with an irony component. The palate is medium-bodied, not complex, but well-balanced, crisp and fleshy. Very natural and unassuming; loose-knit, but with a core of red berried fruits, mulberry, leather and a touch of bitter chocolate. Not much grip, a little dryness on the finish. Although not a great Right Bank 1989, this has charm and grace. Drink now and over the next 5-10 years. Tasted November 2006.