Meursault Perrieres, Domaine Pierre Morey 2018

The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières opens in the glass with notes of citrus oil, pear, oatmeal and struck flint, framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and intense, with racy acids and a searingly chalky finish. Anne Morey tells me that her father farmed this 0.55-hectare parcel before acquiring it at the end of the 1980s, and the composition of the soils suggests that this was the location where rejected stones from the quarry that lends the climat its name were discarded.

The Moreys' 0.5ha parcel is in upper part of Perrières, close to the Sous le Dos d'Âne Premier Cru. As a result, it's a pretty racy expression of the Premier Cru. Dense, concentrated and very well balanced, it's a classic Meursault from a cooler site, with skilfully handled 35% new wood, plenty of extract anad a long, mineral-etched finish. Classy stuff.