Henri Giraud Argonne 2013

The 2013 Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Argonne is the latest in a series of superb releases from Giraud. Unwinding in the glass with notes of buttered toast, crisp yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb, warm spices and ripe stone fruits, it's full-bodied, deep and vinous, with a layered core of concentrated fruit, incisive acids and an elegant pearly mousse. Long and penetrating, it's finer-boned than its richer, more muscular 2012 predecessor; but like that more structured wine, it will reward bottle age.

Tart tartine, brioche, green apple, and hints of ripe fresh herbs. Menthol, too. It’s very direct and powerful with vivid acidity and a dry, racy finish. Tight and compressed with an elegant structure. Linear and very energetic. Turns decadent and flavorful at the end. Shows the cold growing season. Subtle and complex. Single-vineyard wine. 90% pinot noir and 10% chardonnay. Drink or hold.

Glowing pale coper colour. It's certainly more savoury and lifted than the 2012 – and tighter with more tension. And more life ahead of it with real line and still lots of chewiness. Very racy indeed. Quite hard to believe this is informed by Pinot Noir. But there is a great undertow. 2022 - 2030