Vosne Romanée Les Beauxmonts, Domaine Georges Noellat 2018

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts is lovely, wafting from the glass with a deep-pitched bouquet of plums, dark chocolate, cassis, orange rind and espresso roast. Medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's rich and concentrated, with powdery tannins and lively acids. This will demand patience, but it's very promising.

This is restrained to the point of being almost mute and requires considerable swirling to eventually reveal the spicy black fruit aromas that display a floral top note. The highly energetic and well-delineated middle weight flavors that also culminate in a dusty and linear if slightly grippy and drying finish. This may come together but at present it's less well-balanced.