Kevin John Chardonnay, Cullen Wines 2018

This has such a complex, pristine nose with wet stones, lemon curd and sliced and grilled peaches, as well as fresh apricots and grilled hazelnuts. It is brimming with life. The palate is so perfectly measured and smoothly fleshy with a succulent core of such juicy, rich peaches and grilled lemons. It unfolds long and graceful into the finish. Brilliant chardonnay here. Drink or hold.

Picked on fruit and flower days, with one 'moon opposite Saturn' (flower day) harvest, which was fermented in a concrete egg. Perfumed vanilla, cantaloupe and dried pear, with hints of blossom and orange bitters suffuse the senses. The palate is broad-shouldered – opulent even – tapering energetically to a long finish and propelled by lipsmacking ripe lime and grapefruit acidity. Pure, muscular fruit powers through to mop up the new oak (50%) with ease. Very charismatic.