The quality of the Estate Chardonnay in 2019 is remarkable. Pale lemon colour in the glass, creamy, smoky citrus and riper peach come through on the nose in tandem with the textbook flinty reduction that we have come to expect from Kumeu River. The palate has superb delineation of citrus, stone and even tropical pineapple fruit, but is tamed by a hit of zesty acidity. There is real weight and viscosity, with deep honeyed lemon and buttery poached pears coming through. The struck match and savoury spices add layers of complexity through the mid-palate, but everything is in balance despite the power. Long and harmonious, a superb wine that will drink well in the next 12 months but will no doubt improve and evolve with bottle age for a decade. This is a contender for the best Estate ever, alongside the brilliant 2014 and 2010 vintages. |