Volnay Les Champans, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2015

This is aromatically cooler and slightly more reserved as well with its overtly spicy array of red and dark pinot fruit, warm earth and a softly exotic character. While the medium-bodied flavors aren't quite as powerful and concentrated they are notably finer with noticeably better acidity that adds to the sense of underlying tension on the beautifully balanced finale. This is one of the better examples of Champans fashioned here in several years and it should rank with the 2005 and 2010.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Champans was picked on 1 September and the fruit was completely de-stemmed. It has a precocious bouquet with oodles of red cherry, kirsch and blueberry notes that are nicely controlled, seeming to gather momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, velvety smooth with sensual blueberry and strawberry fruit, a hint of orange sorbet and cherry liqueur on the finish. This is a gorgeous Volnay Champans and it would not surprise me if it ended up being Dominique Lafon's finest 2015, white or red.