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Light straw-yellow. Deep, soil-inflected aromas and flavors of white stone fruits, clove, hazelnut, marzipan, white pepper, smoke and minerals, with a note of orange bitters emerging after extended aeration. Wonderfully rich, silky and mouthfilling but not at all heavy, showing considerable baby fat for young Corton-Charlemagne but with a powerful stony underpinning. Seriously rich, ageworthy wine with a touch of dusty tannins and palate-saturating breadth and salty length. This wine is seriously satisfying right now but should undergo dramatic transformation over the years as it burns off some of its baby fat, which it started to do with 72 hours in the recorked bottle. A star of the vintage, showing no sign of heat or blurriness and communicating a very strong if fully ripe impression of terroir.
The 2015 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray reveals a youthful nose of citrus zest, white flowers, tart pineapple and struck flint, framed by some spicy new oak. On the palate, this full-bodied wine reveals tension and definition that it seemed to miss in barrel, its glossy attack now backed by a nicely chalky structure and a deep, properly reserved core. This will need some time in the bottle to integrate, but its evolution is very promising, and while this is unusually rich and concentrated those qualities don't come at the expense of terroir.
The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a slightly muffled, rather anonymous bouquet that requires a little more clarity. The palate is taut and crisp on the entry and the acidity nicely judged, although it needs more persistence toward the saline finish. Not bad and it seems to improve, gaining more refinement with aeration. There is complexity here, but this clearly needs several years in bottle. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.