Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine Comte Armand 2017

The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was tasted from different sectors of the vineyard. The first sample, tasted directly from tank, comes from two parcels, one at the bottom part of the clos populated by 45- to 65-year-old vines on clay-rich soils, and another located in a plot of 35- to 38-year-old vines. This has a precise, focused bouquet of black cherries, bilberry, a touch of oyster shell and just a hint of blue fruit. The 30% new oak is neatly integrated. The medium-bodied palate shows supple tannins laced with a fine bead of acidity. It exerts a gentle grip and feels quite saline toward the finish. A second sample from limestone soils demonstrates a little more amplitude and a higher percentage of red fruit, not to mention a silkier finish, while a third sample from 86- to 98-year-old vines provides the floral scents and the persistency, perhaps the intellect, of what will be the final blend. This does not possess quite the persistency of the greatest Clos des Epeneaux that I have encountered, yet it is undoubtedly a beautifully made wine.