Saint Veran Premiers Jus, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2017

In Guffens's own words, the 2017 Saint-Véran 1er Jus is "a bomb," and that's an assessment that will find no dissent from this reviewer. Opening in the glass with aromas of fresh pear, white flowers, Meyer lemon, wheat toast and fresh pastry, the wine is full-bodied, broad and satiny, with an enveloping, textural attack that segues into a strikingly racy and incisive palate, concluding with a long and mineral finish. This weightless but immensely concentrated white Burgundy is a Saint-Véran of genius. 2022-2042

Rich and ripe on the nose the palate has fleshy greengage concentrated flavours. Apple and grapefruit underpin refresh ripe melon at the back gives fleshy richness depth on the finish. 2018-24

From the Clos des Poncetys and Les Combes, the 2017 Saint-Véran 1er Jus is strikingly good, even at this early stage, exhibiting classy aromas of citrus oil, oatmeal and crisp orchard fruit. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with beautiful cut and tension. Incisive and concentrated, it has all the makings of a great Saint-Véran that will surpass this cuvée's last rendition, the 2015.