Montrachet, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2014


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Tasting Notes

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has a clean and fresh bouquet, perhaps just a bit too much lime for my liking, although there is mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is fresh and saline on the entry with a superb line of acidity. There is weight and presence to this Montrachet, and it gains weight and delivers a knockout, extremely persistent finish tinged with lemon thyme and sherbet. Though a little disjointed at present, I suspect this will turn into a wonderful Montrachet with style and class. But be warned that it will require several years in bottle.

Score: 98Neal Martin, Wine Advocate (233), October 2017

Reduction completely flattens the underlying fruit and all that can presently be discerned is wood toast. This is a much bigger and richer wine than the Perrières with its full-bodied and luxurious flavors that brim with seemingly a limitless supply of dry extract yet there is a fine sense of underlying tension and precision on the balanced and hugely persistent finish. As it usually is this stunningly good Montrachet is incredibly powerful yet focused with superb development potential that is going to require a seriously extended snooze in a cool cellar.

Score: 94/97Allen Meadows,, June 2016

(still in tank): Distinctly wild aromas of pineapple, iodine, resiny oak and caraway seed lifted by a floral topnote. Then brooding and a bit lower-toned on the palate than the Perrières but with a texture of liquid velvet to its plush, soil-driven flavors of ripe stone fruits and smoky minerality. This youthfully musky, extremely backward wine does not currently display the sheer verve of Lafon's supernal Meursault Perrières but it boasts outstanding sweetness for the year and a wonderfully tactile, building, palate-dusting finish. This wine will need extended cellaring.

Score: 94/96Stephen Tanzer,, September 2016

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