Corton Clos des Cortons, Domaine Faiveley 2015
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This too is extremely ripe yet manages to avoid any sense of surmaturité on the once again liqueur-like aromas of black cherry, cassis, anise and lilac scents. This is a massive wine, with simply huge mid-palate concentration, power and muscle that terminates just like the Rodin in a borderline painfully intense finale that both coats the palate and lasts for minutes. I take considerable pains to point out however that this ultra-structured and overtly austere effort is not only built for the long haul but for the very long haul. I have suggested an initial drinking window of 25 years from now but it may very well be 30 to 40. In sum, this is very old school Corton.
|Score: 94/96||Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (65), January 2017|
Full medium red. Deep, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, dark cherry, redcurrant, coffee and underbrush; not quite as black as it was from barrel in late 2016 but still conveys a brooding menthol quality. Enters the mouth plush and utterly seamless, but terrific soil-driven saline minerality gives definition to the middle palate. A bit reticent today but the slowly mounting, extremely long finish saturates everything in its path. The tannins are huge but plush, saturating the front teeth and incisors. I recall technical director Jérôme Flous telling me last year that this wine has an IPT (indice polyphenols totaux) of 90, compared to a normal 50. This outsized grand cru shows the sweetness of the vintage's best examples and appears to possess the stuffing and structure to go on in bottle for 25 years; in fact, it shut down rather dramatically with time in the recorked bottle.
|Score: 95+||Stephen Tanzer, vinous.com, January 2018|
(entirely destemmed, as these thick-skinned grapes were extremely high in tannins and total polyphenols): Saturated dark red-ruby. Distinctly dark aromas of black cherry, licorice and violet convey an impression of medicinal reserve. Powerful black cherry, crunchy raspberry and licorice flavors boast remarkable intensity and energy but come across as less austere at this stage than normal. A huge wine with the structure for a 25-year evolution in bottle but there's something almost feminine about its fine-grained texture. The major tannins are totally supported by fruit on the classic, penetrating, extremely long aftertaste. A great wine in the making. (Erwan Faiveley noted that this was the most impressive must he's ever tasted.) The IPT (indice polyphenols totaux) here is a whopping 90, compared to a normal 50, according to Jerome Flous, who added that the record for this cuvée was 103 in 2005.
|Score: 95/97||Stephen Tanzer, vinous.com, January 2017|
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