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**Note: produced from two large parcels of differing vine age - one that is approximately two-thirds of the blend and is now 50+ years of age and a second, smaller group of vines that is approximately 25+ years of age**
Here too there is gentle wood setting off a similar if more complex nose that displays more prominent floral and spice scents. There is very good volume to the utterly delicious medium weight and wonderfully vibrant flavors that possess really fine delineation before culminating in a mineral-inflected, saline and focused finish. I very much admire the sleek mouth feel as well as the impeccable balance. Lovely juice that is moderately structured and a bit less youthfully austere than usual.
Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is a divisive wine, not one for those seeking layer upon layer of fruit. It is more mature in appearance than its peers, perhaps missing the fruit intensity one would anticipate from a grand cru of this stature. There is something a little "dusty attic" here although that ebbs away with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly leafy entry, gentle and elegant, full of personality. It is missing the weight and volume that a more benevolent vintage would have lent and it does not quite possess the structure or substance to suggest long-term. Yet, it remains a well-crafted and to put it prosaically, is absolutely delicious. Tasted September 2016.
The 2013 Clos des Lambrays is whole bunch as usual (whereas the Morey Saint Denis is destemmed) and raised in 50% new oak. Thierry Brouin assembled my sample from four barrels scattered around the cellar, since the ventilation at one end creates variance in maturation. It has a refined bouquet with crisp leafy red berry fruit, harmonious and gaining intensity in the glass, fine mineralité underneath. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins and very well-judged acidity. This feels very harmonious with more energy and tension than the 2012, structured with a bright and vivacious finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is a classy Clos des Lambrays 2013 that should age with panache.