Beychevelle 1998

This elegant, stylish, well-delineated Beychevelle offers finesse and beauty in a medium-bodied, firmly-structured, flavorful format. Red and black currants, licorice, minerals, spice, and tar notes are subtle, but persuasive. While it does not cut an enormous swath across the palate, the wine's acidity, alcohol, and tannin are well-balanced. Anticipated maturity: now-2016. Last tasted, 3/02.

This wine has firmed up considerably since last year. It reveals tough tannin and a lack of maturity in the Cabernet Sauvignon. A good yet uninspiring effort, it offers spice box, floral, berry, and new oak aromas. Consume it during its first 10-12 years of life.

This is a charming, medium-bodied, wine from one of St.-Julien's only underachievers. It is good to see the effort put forth by Beychevelle, as this wine exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, in addition to a sweet, floral, black currant, dried herb, and toasty-scented bouquet. There is excellent richness, an overall sense of elegance and symmetry, and a graceful, moderately long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2012.