La Croix de Labrie 2010

Always one of the sexiest wines from Bordeaux, and probably best drunk in its first decade of life, this hedonistic fruit-bomb offers up oodles of jammy black cherry and black currant fruit interwoven with some floral notes, subtle oak, lead pencil shavings and a bit of toast. Voluptuous, full-bodied and silky smooth, with no aggressiveness, the tannins seem to melt on the palate, while the finish is long, supple and extravagant. Drink it over the next decade.

Some candified aromas. High acidity and even some greenness. Sweet and sour. Not sure this will ever quite settle down into a beautiful harmonious whole. Drying finish.

One of the tiniest production as well as most seductive, opulent wines in all of Bordeaux, only 200 cases of the Croix de Labrie are made in most vintages. I was only able to taste the 2010 on one occasion and the aromatics revealed some oxidation, but the palate exploded with blue and black fruits intermixed with hints of coffee, chocolate and exotic Asian spices. Opulent, dense and super-concentrated, it should merit a mid-ninety point rating.