CDP Hautes Brusquières, Domaine de la Charbonnière 2009

The biggest, richest 2009 of the three is undoubtedly the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Hautes Brusquières Cuvee Spéciale. The first words I wrote in my notes were “Rock Star,” and this awesome 2009 is overflowing with notions of black currants, licorice, roasted herbs and garrigue. Thick, rich, chewy and unctuous, it’s similar to the Vieilles Vignes, yet has another level of fat and texture.

The dark ruby 2009 Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale (a blend of 60% Grenache and a whopping 40% Syrah, with the Grenache aged in foudres and the Syrah in small oak) has a full-bodied mouthfeel with loads of glycerin. (I am sure the alcohol is 15% plus.) This wine, displaying notes of black cherries intermixed with black currants, licorice and forest floor as well as hints of incense and camphor, is very well made. Luscious and expansive, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-15 years.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale comes from a lieu-dit in the northwestern sector of the appellation. Made in a completely different style, this blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah, aged primarily in wood cuves, and 10% barriques for the Syrah, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color in addition to abundant quantities of steely minerality interwoven with sweet black raspberry and black currant fruit. This is a full-bodied, Provencal-styled wine with light to moderate tannin and an attractive, medium to full-bodied finish. It should drink well for 10-15 years.