Chablis Valmur, Domaine François Raveneau 2007

Here the nose is every bit as elegant if not more so but it's distinctly cooler and somehow more distant yet the strong Chablis character is immediately evident as the nose is a classic combination of green fruit, warm stone, iodine and distilled extract of sea water and this intense saline quality continues onto the equally cool, brilliantly defined and stunningly well balanced flavors that are crystalline in their purity on the driving finish. This does a slow but steady build in intensity from the mid-palate on back and the length is flat out amazing.

In tank awaiting bottling, the Raveneau 2007 Chablis Valmur smells alluringly of iris, basswood, mint, and lemon, with a pungent hint of white pepper. With terrific pungency and cut on the palate yet, at the same time, superb textural refinement, this combines refreshment, invigorating piquancy, and vivid chalkiness with subtle creaminess of texture and an effortless sense of finishing buoyancy that perfectly fits its persistently wafting floral perfume. Once again with this cru chez Raveneau, we have truly grand cru magic that should continue in bottle for at least 12-15 years.