Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin, J-L Chave 2003

The stupendous 2003 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin was never racked from barrel to barrel, nor was any SO2 utilized. Readers should think of it as the concentrated essence of a Chave Hermitage. It is a port-like effort that is neither hot, pruny, nor overripe despite what the numbers might suggest. As Chave says, this is a wine that will age many decades on its sheer level of concentration as the acidity is appallingly low, and the pH extraordinarily high, but the level of concentration and essence in the wine is akin to some of the most monumental wines ever to emerge from France. Most of this cuvee comes from Chave's two most renowned vineyard sites, Les Bessards and Le Meal. Its black/purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of blackberry liqueur, creme de cassis, melted licorice, a hint of caramel, striking minerality, a viscous/unctuous texture, and a finish that lasts well over a minute. Thicker and richer than the 2003 Hermitage, and nearly one degree higher in alcohol, it is a monumental effort, but production was minuscule.

Every bit as profound, yet distinctly different, the 2003 Hermitage Cuvee Cathelin is a cellar selection that comes mostly from Chave's Les Bessards holdings and sees slightly more time in oak. More decadent in style, with ripe cassis, truffle, earth, spiced meats and licorice, it offers a singular profile on the palate with massive concentration and extract, a thick, chewy texture and incredible length. As with the straight Hermitage, it stays graceful and elegant, with no sense of weight or heat in its seamless profile. Sadly, there were only 125 cases of this elixir produced, so here's to hoping I get to taste this singular beauty again as well!

Jean Louis' two 2003 Hermitages should be on everyone's bucket list of wines to try at least once (preferably more) in their life. They both represent the essence of Hermitage and are as good as wine gets.