CDP Clos du Mont Olivet, Domaine Joseph Sabon 1998

Good full medium red. Pure, vibrant, captivating nose combines raspberry, garrigue, lavender and pepper. Then lush, broad and silky in the mouth, with a distinctly savory quality leavening the wine's inherent sweetness. In fact, this is more noteworthy for its energy and structure than for weight or thickness. Finishes with suave, fine-grained tannins, outstanding subtle lingering perfume and a light touch. Classic, gripping Chateauneuf du Pape with a long future ahead of it. I underrated this wine at the outset, and I believe Pierre Sabon did as well when he described it in the early going as "rounder and fatter than the 1999."

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape is a big effort, displaying spice, pepper, and tannin. Its dense ruby/plum/purple color is followed by a full-bodied wine with the tell-tale kirsch flavors, and nicely-layered fat and texture. Although not the blockbuster I thought it might turn out to be, it is an impressive Chateauneuf du Pape with lots of firmness and spice. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2015.