De Malle 2007

Tasted single blind against its peers. The Chateau de Malle 2007 is very pure on the nose: touches of lemon curd, apricot-blossom and white peach with a crystalline clarity. The palate is very well-balanced with impressive levels of botrytis, displaying a pinch of spice on the entry. It has put on weight in recent months and developed a convincing caressing finish imbued with tension. This exceeds my previous expectations.

The 2007 de Malle takes time to coalesce in the glass: a subtle Sauternes with honeysuckle, orange-blossom, a touch of white peach and a hint of quince. Good definition, but boy, does it take time to unfurl. The palate is well balanced with good acidity and levels of botrytis, perhaps just missing the complexity and depth on the finish that I was hoping for, linear at this stage, but it should blossom with ageing and there remains the palpable sense of mineralite on the finish that it showed back at primeur. Drink 2014-2030.

This has a simple nose with a relatively low level of botrytized fruit. Honey, grapefruit and a touch of dried lychee. The palate is well-balanced, good acidity, much more elegant in style but with good definition and focus towards the finish. Good nervosité and minerality on the finish. Very well-crafted de Malle. Very fine. Drink 2012-2027. Tasted April 2008