Chablis Les Preuses, Domaine William Fèvre 2007

This is every bit as elegant as the Valmur with nuanced, highly layered, discreet and very pure aromas of understated green fruit and almost pungent tidal pool aromas that are followed by rounded, focused and incredibly complex flavors displaying notes of warm stone and oyster shell. The texture and mouth feel of this are positively seductive as the finish is a liaison of richness and delicacy with that silky yet explosive finish that all the great examples of Preuses seem to possess. A wine of crystalline purity that is pure silk and class. A don't miss Fèvre '07.

Bright, pale yellow-green. Knockout nose combines lime, metallic minerality and powdered stone. Wonderfully concentrated Preuses, offering a compelling combination of bracing citrus and mineral flavors and outstanding richness (the former coming from the southeast-facing vines and the latter from those facing west, notes director Stephane Follin-Arbelet). Wonderfully pure wine, finishing with outstanding cut, lift and length

The 2007 Chablis Preuses - reflecting the nearly one-quarter of this site (in two parcels) that Fevre owns - immediately forces the taster into a crustacean vocabulary, with the mineral, saline, sweet, and seductively savory character of scallops and lobster shell reduction coming to mind. A superb creaminess and uncanny sense of underlying density combines with levity and subtly citric refreshment - imagine a rich, creamy shellfish stock whipped to a froth - while wafting iris perfume and the wine's sheer extract combine for a sense of sugar-free sweetness in a soothing, sensationally long and distinctive finish. Lucky are those who can follow a few bottles of this for the next dozen or more years.

This is every bit as elegant as the Valmur with nuanced, highly layered, discreet and very pure aromas of understated green fruit and almost pungent tidal pool aromas that are followed by rounded, focused and incredibly complex flavors displaying notes of warm stone and oyster shell. The texture and mouth feel of this are positively seductive as the finish is a liaison of richness and delicacy with that silky yet explosive finish that all the great examples of Preuses seem to possess. A wine of crystalline purity that is every bit as good as the Valmur. Another don't miss Fèvre '07.

Pale, green-tinged color. Brisk aromas of powdered stone and orange peel. At once very rich and high-pitched, with penetrating, fruit-dominated flavors of orange, lemon and grapefruit. Offers a lovely light touch but is not yet revealing its full personality in the middle palate. Best today on the very pure, elegant finish, which mounts impressively and stains the palate with ineffable fruit.