Clinet 1990

A sensational effort, and one of the two finest Clinets made before the 2008, this prodigious wine made by the late Jean-Michel Arcaute has always been a sprinter out of the gate. Even at age 19, it continues to strut its stuff. A dense blue/garnet/purple hue exhibits slight lightening at the edge, and the gorgeous nose offers up aromas of sweet blueberries, licorice, smoke, acacia flowers, and camphor. Full-bodied with silky tannins, low acidity, and terrific purity, this 1990 has hit its plateau of full maturity where it should remain for another decade.

More evolved than its world-famous sibling, the 1989, the 1990 continues to gain weight and stature every time I taste it. In a blind tasting, it is not easy to pick the difference between the younger, less evolved 1989 and the blockbuster 1990. The color is just starting to lighten up a bit, but is still a saturated purple. Notes of smoke, chocolate, espresso, mocha, and blackberry and cassis jump from the glass of this full-bodied, splendidly aromtic, and prodigiously concentrated wine. It is compelling stuff. Anticipated maturity: now -2017. Last tasted, 9/02.