2019 Burgundy

The 2019 vintage in Burgundy has been difficult to taste due to the ongoing global restrictions on travel and tastings, but between our team and with the help of reports from several writers and critics, we have provided a succinct summary of the style and quality to be expected for the latest releases from the home of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Wine Advocate’s William Kelley hails it a “superb vintage”. He asserts it is a “thrilling year for Pinot Noir”, adding that “attentive producers excelled” with their whites. Allen Meadows of Burghound concurs, saying it is “another great vintage ending in 9” with “fresh, elegant and concentrated wines” and Neal Martin of Vinous puts simply “I love the 2019 vintage for both whites and reds.”

The Weather

Europe experienced dry conditions and heat in the summer of 2019, and Burgundy was no exception. Winter was drier and warmer than usual – water reserves were not fully replenished. The growing season had an inauspicious start when cool and wet weather for flowering put immediate pressure on yields – “particularly for the whites”, says Neal Martin. The summer was warm and dry, with the highest temperatures in June and July before mercifully cooling through August and September.

Rain fell sporadically, but not evenly across the region. Rains in mid-August and the beginning of September were a respite for all. This led to healthy and concentrated fruit, which is great for quality but unfortunately – again – means low yields. Harvest was later than in 2018, closer to recent norms, as the producers searched for phenolic ripeness slowed due to the stress on the vines during the summer. Once started however, it happened quickly. Producers raced against rapidly rising sugars through early and mid-September. The fruit was very healthy, Neal Martin stating that “sorting was barely necessary”. Many picked early in the day to retain freshness and ensure that fermentations began slowly.

The Wines

Small bunches with small grapes gave a high skin to juice ratio due to the concentration achieved before harvest. This both increased fruit intensity and elevated potential alcohols – which are similar to those found in 2018. A dry northerly wind could be critical to the balance in the vintage, concentrating acidity as well as sugars. One of the most striking elements of these wines is the notable freshness and vibrancy, despite their ripeness. The pH in the wines is generally lower than in 2018, bringing real harmony and lift against the ripe fruit, and tannins in case of the reds.

Yields are particularly low for the whites, which William Kelley calls “rich, muscular wines, with above-average alcohol levels and serious structure.” That is certainly the case with the Domaine Guffens-Heynen and Maison Verget wines. They are rich, muscular and hugely impressive but will need time to unfurl. Kelley suggests the whites are a theoretical blend of 2012 for “texture and concentration”, 2017 for “ripe but lively acids” and 2015 for “above-average alcohol levels and elevated levels of dry extract”. His mature vintage comparison is 1989.

Structurally the reds have many similarities to the whites – alcohols can be elevated but acidity is too, bringing balance and freshness to the wines. They are immediately expressive, succulent and impressive. Neal Martin is enthusiastic about the quality, saying the wines have “expressive, at times almost flamboyant aromatics” and are “utterly seductive”. William Kelley concurs, stating that “the greatness of some vintages takes time to emerge, with others, it’s immediately apparent, and that was the case in 2019.” His vintage blend is one of 2017 – “succulence, charm and expressiveness” – and 2015 – “substance and concentration”. The mature vintage comparison is 1964 – “a ripe, rather powerful vintage nonetheless beautifully differentiated by site and endowed with considerable aging potential.” The Jadot wines showed brilliantly, with many cuvées the best we can remember tasting in recent vintages.

It is clear there are many great wines to be had from Burgundy in 2019, though restricted yields mean that sourcing the wines will be as difficult as ever. Below we can offer a range of producers, with wines spanning great value and under-appreciated appellations through to the most-revered Grand Crus in the region. 

Many Wines are En Primeur and Available for Delivery in Late 2021