The 2014 Saint-Veran Lieu Inter(Dit), which comes from the Côte Rôtie vineyard that is no longer allowed on the label, was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare and matured in 25% new wood. It has a straightforward, honeysuckle and resinous bouquet that opens nicely in the glass, a hint of walnut developing with time. The palate is fresh and quite powerful on the entry. I like the acidic drive here, while there is commendable depth on the orange rind and pear-tinged finish. This should drink well over the next 8-10 years. Drink 2016-2026.
This too flirts with reduction though aggressive swirling reveals underlying white orchard fruit scents; if you're tempted to try a bottle young, be sure to decant it first. Once again there is excellent volume and intensity to the solidly concentrated middle weight flavors that possess a lovely minerality and plenty of salinity on the more complex and lingering finish where a note of bitter lemon is again discernible. Drink: 2019+ Top value
Note: As is Guffen's habit from time to time, he pokes fun at the appellation regulations by protesting that the name of the vineyard, which is typically called a "lieu-dit", cannot be used through a play on words as "interdit" means prohibited. All of this concerns threatened legal action from the producers' syndicate of Côte Rôtie against anyone who uses the vineyard name of Côte Rôtie even though St. Véran is obviously a white wine. Moreover the vineyard name predates the establishment of the AOC regulations so it has been in use for decades. Guffens is not the only one affected by this as there are plenty of producers who believe that this ruling is not only wrong but an injustice. As several growers explained it to me it's a matter of entering into a potentially protracted legal battle and while many believe that they would win the question becomes at what cost? One would think that the syndicate has bigger things to worry about but apparently not.
The vineyard is called Côte Rôtie, a name that is now forbidden, hence the (Inter)dit dig. Davayé and the same soil as Puilly Fuisse La Roche. Just 25 hl/ha. 25% new oak. Quite rich and satin-textured – riper than some. Big and bold. Still just a hint of oak in evidence but great energy and vitality. Long and reverberant.
