Volnay Les Champans, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2012

**Note: from a huge 3.98 ha parcel**
Here too there is a touch of reduction that is again just enough to shave the top notes off the otherwise pure and elegant nose so I would also suggest decanting this if you're tempted to try a bottle young. There is very good phenolic maturity to the supporting and well-integrated structure that shapes the sleekly muscular medium weight plus flavors that exude a fine minerality on the seductively textured finish. This robust effort is clearly built for the very long haul and other than perhaps trying a bottle young just to understand what you have, this beauty is one to bury in the cellar and forget for a very long time.

(90% of the way through its malolactic fermentation): Deep red. A bit disturbed and musky on the nose. Then sweet and creamy in the mouth; lower-pitched than the Taillepieds but with a suave, enveloping texture and smooth tannins. Hard to taste now as it's not perfectly pure, but this is a wonderfully round and rich Volnay in the making.

There is enough reduction present to compromise the expressiveness of the nose but the underlying fruit clearly seems ripe. This impression of ripeness is confirmed by the very good phenolic maturity of the supporting and well-integrated structure that shapes the sleekly muscular medium weight plus flavors that exude a fine minerality on the seductively textured finish. Between the concentration, fine maturity and beguiling texture it is all but impossible to discern any negative effects from the hail.