Gruaud Larose 1983

Maturity on the colour, brick red with browning at the rim indicating the passage of time. Complexity and intensity with lovely smoky notes - the famous cigar box in evidence here. There are additional layers of dark mulberries, blackcurrants and a velvety richness to the expressive strawberry, raspberry and cherry nose. For a wine of more than 20 years of age this still has remarkable depth. Firm but silky, ripe fruit tannins, not in any way overbearing and well supported by warm, soft red fruit and more evident minerals. Although smooth and elegant, there is a tighter more structured feel with a good overall sense of balance. The additional fruit in the length helps soften the vibrant acidity whilst keeping the freshness on the finish. Overall, this is a sweet, rounded, smooth and fully mature claret that still has a certain "grip" holding it together. This will give a great deal of pleasure if consumed over the next 2 to 3 years. Fine, mature Bordeaux from a great Chateau and a good vintage at a modest price.

A blockbuster 1983, Gruaud-Larose can be drunk now, but promises to keep for at least another 20-25 years. Typical of the wines this property made in the late seventies and early eighties, it offers a full throttle style, an opaque dark ruby/purple color with no amber at the edges, and a huge nose of melted road tar, new saddle leather, grilled meats, and black fruits. It is sure to be controversial among those tasters looking for only new oak and fruit aromas. Powerful, spicy, and full-bodied, with surprising viscosity for a 1983, this wine's low acidity allows it to be appreciated now, but there are still formidable quantities of sweet tannins in the finish. One of the most successful wines produced in 1983, it is still available in the marketplace at a reasonable price. Last tasted, 4/93.