Region | |
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Subregion | Germany > Palatinate |
Colour | White |
Type | Still |
Butterscotch, aniseed, vanilla are very seductive aromas, but not of Riesling as we know it. It’s all done in the best possible taste, and the rich, creamy, full-bodied expression on the palate would not be out of place in a fine white burgundy of the Puligny-Montrachet school. French winemaker Matthieu Kauffmann may have come from champagne house Bollinger, but he would also have learned a thing or two about oak in his time at Baden producer Salwey. Wood spice, hazelnuts and a gentle earthy note add complexity to an untraditional interpretation of Riesling Grosses Gewächs.
Some initial smoky notes give way to refined flowery scents of yellow peach, pear, vanilla and mint on the nose. The minty side comes through on the palate. The structure and tannins make for a powerful and mouth-coating experience. The after-taste is quite powerful. This forceful expression of Riesling needs time to settle down and integrate all its elements. It could well turn out even better than initially expected if it gains in finesse. 2020-2031