XIX Crafted by Family, Van Zellers & Co. 1870

Considerably darker than the Liberty (1860), more fruity and open and more sweetly raisined. Dark, bitter-sweet toffee, burnt apricot flavours. It's more viscous too and incredibly concentrated, with a long, sweet finish, lifted by the VA. Of these three very old tawnies, this is the exhibitionist. More in your face, more sweet/sour but still addictively delicious and, miraculously, balanced even if I feel the alcohol a little more on the finish.

Mahogany in colour. An intense and savoury, layered nose of cigar wrapper, bitter cocoa, raisins, charred silver birch, clove, nutmeg and candied orange peel. As with all these remarkable, aged wines the acidity has concentrated with the sugars and flavours, giving a deft and tangy profile with no sense of cloying texture. This is fleshy but not sugary, the sweetness coming from layers of dried fruit, caramelised nuts and sweet spices. This is wonderfully pure, with a textural profile and balance akin to very old Madeira. The smokiness of the nose is present again on the palate, with a salty, almost peaty profile to make it stand out. Minutes long on the finish, another remarkable wine.