Tertre Rôteboeuf 2000

My all-time favorite vintage of Tertre-Roteboeuf, the 2000 should age much more consistently than the rather irregular 1990 or the top-notch 1989. The 2005 should give it a run for its money down the road, but at present, this wine is performing fabulously well. It boasts a dense ruby/purple color along with notes of kirsch liqueur and licorice. This St.-Emilion could pass for a great Chateauneuf du Pape or top-notch Musigny, although it has more power and depth than a burgundy, and none of the peppery/garrigue characteristics of a Rhone. Nevertheless, there is a sweet character from the high glycerin level as I suspect the alcohol content exceeds 14%. Velvety textured and full-bodied, but surprisingly youthful, this stunningly rich wine can be drunk now, but promises to last another two decades.

The 2000 is a spectacular wine, with a decadent bouquet of creamy ripe black fruits, exotic spices, tobacco, tar and mocha—barrel, fruit and terroir are elegantly knit together into an harmonious melange. On the palate the wine is rich, textural and obviously ripe, but the fruit retains vivacity and sap through the energetic finish. Few winemakers can manage ripeness and high levels of new oak so deftly, entirely avoiding the sucrosity, back-end heat and uncovered oak tannins that mar so many modern Saint-Emilions.